"Oh, We Must All Go to Brighton!"

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Brighton Royal Pavilion

Jane Austen's Lydia Bennet was right. For a young person today, Brighton is the perfect place to pick up (that is to say, "meet") other young people. For more mature persons, Brighton still offers many pleasures. Fred and I stayed there in April to experience a "last evening of fun" before traveling on to Hailsham to attend a rather intense conference on Statistics, Science and Public Policy. The Granville Hotel along the waterfront features rooms that are named rather than numbered (with themed decor), including the Noel Coward Room, the Japanese Room, Mr. Kemp's [!] Room, and the Pavilion Room.

Of course when one is in Brighton, one must tour the Royal Pavilion. Begun by Prince George in 1787 as a seaside retreat, it expanded and metamorphosed over the years into a pleasure palace most unEnglish. (Small wonder that Queen Victoria was only too glad to unload it.) The architectural style is formally known as "Indo-Saracenic." It was used as an Indian Military Hospital during the Great War (WWI), as it was thought that the Mughal architecture (the domes being vaguely reminiscent of the Taj Mahal) might provide Indian soldiers with familiar surroundings (but it's hard to imagine an ordinary Indian soldier being raised in such extravagant trappings). Interiors are best described as flamboyant and exotic. During the Regency, English society was fascinated with "things Orientale"—witness the variety of exotic ladies' headdresses at balls, for example. The interiors feature rich furniture coverings and draperies, magnificent chandeliers, colorful chinoiserie, and Mughal and Islamic touches. The city of Brighton purchased the Pavilion and grounds in 1850 from the Crown. The main building was used as Assembly Rooms, and in 1860 the stables were converted into the Brighton Concert Hall, still in use today. This year features many programs and displays relating the Centenary of the Great War.

Another sight, easily overlooked but well worth seeing, is the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery. Here one gets more of a sense of the life and history of the city of Brighton through displays of photographs, furniture, household items, and clothing. Especially enjoyable is the room, "Mr. Willett's Popular Pottery." Henry Willett, a founder of the Brighton Museum, believed that one way of recording British popular history was through collecting ceramics, which could reveal aspects of social, cultural and political trends. "The history of a country may be traced on its homely pottery." The two thousand figures and vessels cover the period 1600—1900 and were catalogued by Willett under 23 themes. The display themes include Royalty, Military Heroes, Soldiers and Sailors (one sees images of the dreaded "press gangs" who conscripted unsuspecting inebriated men for the Royal Navy), England and France (Napoleon as evil pirate), England and America, Philanthropy (a freed slave symbolizing the liberation
movement), Crime (a Highwayman), and Professions and Trades (such as pottery, naturally). There was a very nice figure of Benjamin Franklin, and another porcelain piece which surprisingly said, "Success to the United States." [!]

The Brighton Marine Palace and Pier is the modern-day seaside equivalent of "where Lydia Bennet would surely have gone to meet guys." It is a frolicking amusement park with flashing lights, eateries, games and rides, including a Great Wheel. On a weekend, it appears that the median age of folks on the crowded pier is about that of Lydia (16).

Brighton is definitely worth an overnight stay. If that does not fit in your plans, it can be done as a day trip from London by either bus or train (taking the latter continues a London tradition that began in the mid-1800's). The train station is at the top of the "Grand Parade," and a leisurely stroll of some minutes (just follow the crowds) will take you down to the seaside with all its attendant amusements. Indeed, we must all go to Brighton!

—Loveday Conquest

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